Chateau de Bardies

Structures which are both old and usually large have an immensity that exceeds the purely physical: there is an immensity of presence.The immensity of presence is all the more common in large, old houses as these were places in which people lived everyday. Somehow that life is felt. The design of the space, the paths of movement, the infrastructure that demands an action (a fireplace, an oven, a sink) make us aware that this is a space for living, and when it is an old space, we are reminded that others have lived here.  

In some buildings we feel like Walter Benjamin entering his room with the 'bourgeois' arm chair, and we tell ourselves, "I do not belong here". But there are some buildings which radiate with the presence of life in a manner that is encouraging and celebratory. Chateau Bardies is one such structure. It is a place in which one is encouraged to rejoice. 

Like other places in the Ariege it has a unique effect of seeming like a maze. It is a house that cannot be photographed in one shot because it finds a way to hide itself from the range of the camera lens. You cannot understand it all together. There is simply too much. Rather, it is a house of nooks which must be appreciated individually. 

Last weekend I had the pleasure of catering for Chateau de Bardies and their annual summer music party. Roughly sixty guests came from all over France and the UK to rejoice for a few days in this pastoral wonderland. To my surprise, I was told that this was a small party for their standards, as in the past as many as 250 had been invited to the music festivals. This year's party included a blues/rock band, a folk singer, and a 40-minute narrated version of The Magic Flute complete with a Queen of the Night aria. It was truly extraordinary! 

There was a beautiful moment on day two after we had all eaten lunch. Thirty of us lingered under a tree, clustered around a table, listening to two guitarists and a folk singer who tenderly sang familiar tunes. A clarinetist would call back with a low, raspy voice. It was a hot day and the air hung heavily. Bottles of rosé perspired on the table tops. The French would say the sky was 'low'. A Russian woman sang a song about two trees separated by a river, which touched straight to the heart. And a young girl of just 19 years shyly sang to us with a voice that sounded anything but shy. And all of us were captivated. We all felt a moment of happiness with humanity.  The honesty of the music opened us. Taking in the lyrics we were soothed and caressed. And the greatness of this collective emotion rebounded off of one another exponentially.

The verdant view from my window.

 

When life gives you lemon make a lemon tart! My version is super citrusy.

And when life gives you pears...

Make pear ravioli! These were fantastic. We found a delicious local cow's milk "ricotta" which I mixed with grated pears, a sharp pecorino cheese, and a dash of marscarpone for texture. I served this with a simple sage butter sauce with a few bits of crispy pancetta and toasted hazelnuts. 

The former main entrance. The tower is a bathroom with
the original toilets! Further to the right (not visible
in this photo) is another arched surface with arrow slits. 

Lola's slow roasted, herby tomatoes.

The SW of France was once home to many hand-beaten copper makers. 

Pasta hanging to dry in the main kitchen. Note: blinded by the sunlight is a stunning view of rolling, forested hills. The camera simply could not take it all in at once.

The tower in the background collects rainwater.

The pool in the late afternoon. The hills that you see are the grazing fields of cows, which begin their journey back to home in the afternoon, ringing their peaceful bells throughout the hills. Swallows dip into the water in the last moments of daylight.

The stage is ready for dancing and music!

Gathered for a 40-minute opera told by Richard Vardigans, who formerly conducted for several major opera houses, and now gives opera "talks" for groups. This talk on The Magic Flute was fantastic! It was filled with Richard's piano playing, anecdotes on the significance of keys in music, and even a Queen of the Night aria.

A russian woman rehearses a russian folk song to give English folk singer, Katy Heath, a sense of the guitar accompaniment

*Chateau Bardies is one of many centuries-old chateaux in the Ariege. In a region which is now one of the poorest of France, they stand as reminders of Southern France's historic wealth. For more information on this special place visit: http://www.chateaudebardies.net/home.htm