Girona is only a 3 hour drive from Toulouse. Pleasant, picturesque, and lively it is the perfect city to taste the flavors of Catalonia without feeling overwhelmed. There is something almost Italian about the brightly-colored houses clustered around the main river. Built onto a hill, one is entertained with choices of alleyways shaded from the hot, Spanish sun; and massive sets of stairs climbing up to some unknown spot from which one is certain to breath in the view.
Before going I jotted down the names of several promising restaurants and told myself that I would simply wander the city, and dine at whichever I came upon first. Rounding a corner where a stunning bronze door had caught my attention, I discovered where I was fated to dine: restaurant Divinum.
I entered. The decor was bland. It too reminded me of a hotel. Grand but tasteless. Eventually I was taken to a table in the restaurant. Perhaps it was the anxiety of the single diner but I found the wait times to be exhausting. Go with friends. Order a lot of wine. And allow yourself to eat like the other Catalonians: leisurely.
I ordered the mid-priced menu: 6 courses for 30euro. Housemade bread was placed on the table: a delightful, soft seeded bread, and a crispier ciabattia style; served with a vibrant oil and three types of seasoning salts.
After the first course came-- a salad of piquant greens, sharp cheese, tangy berries and savory Jamon Iberico-- I asked for confirmation on the menu and pricing I had chosen. How could it be possible that a massive salad composed of such quality ingredients could be one of 6 courses costing in total 30?!
I had ordered a glass of Cava when I arrived. And a rioja by the glass by the time the second course came along. Roasted figs. Foie gras. Balsamic glaze. What can go wrong here? Nothing. And nothing did. I could have used a bit more foie, but then again, when don't I feel that way?
The third course was by far my favorite. Stuffed, hand-made pastas filled with pear and cheese, with a creamy sauce of crisped Jamon Iberico and bits of crisped cracker. The pasta was perfectly made. These combinations of flavors, classic to Florence, are some of my favorites.
Course #4 was the most disappointing: a tuna tartare, with mango gelato, and large, flat-flaked salt. This simply lacked something. The tuna was fresh, but needed to be brightened up a bit in flavor. The mango simply saturated it with sugars, overwhelming the fish. Nonetheless, I loved the presentation on the slate boards and the crunch of the salt with the tender tuna.
Course # 5 came through with a perfectly braised veal cheek, sitting plumply in its juices and topped with some citrusy rosemary. I asked what the white sauce was-- it was mild and pleasing. The waiter, in his characteristic Catalonian-accented lisp, responded that it was, 'mashed potatoes'.
Desert was served with huge silverware-- approximately 16 inches in lenght. To eat this cake required play. It was a pleasure to dig into the chocolate 'brownie' with oversized flatware. The chocolate cake was served with a slightly bitter, herbaceous green gelato; as well as a brightly acidic current sorbet. The big highlight was the scrumptious desert wine which came along with the course.
I left having paid 42 euro for 6 very large plates and 4 glasses of wine. I was convinced that I underpaid, and this is something I rarely feel. I cannot imagine how it was possible that the ingredients alone of what I had eaten cost less than 30 euro, let alone their gorgeous preparation. Divinum did not disappoint.
I wandered the city on a full belly, admiring the churches and stone work. There were many other restaurants in town which were serving fantastic plates of Catalonian cuisine, from little restaurants tucked into charming street corners.
Before going I jotted down the names of several promising restaurants and told myself that I would simply wander the city, and dine at whichever I came upon first. Rounding a corner where a stunning bronze door had caught my attention, I discovered where I was fated to dine: restaurant Divinum.
I entered. The decor was bland. It too reminded me of a hotel. Grand but tasteless. Eventually I was taken to a table in the restaurant. Perhaps it was the anxiety of the single diner but I found the wait times to be exhausting. Go with friends. Order a lot of wine. And allow yourself to eat like the other Catalonians: leisurely.
I ordered the mid-priced menu: 6 courses for 30euro. Housemade bread was placed on the table: a delightful, soft seeded bread, and a crispier ciabattia style; served with a vibrant oil and three types of seasoning salts.
After the first course came-- a salad of piquant greens, sharp cheese, tangy berries and savory Jamon Iberico-- I asked for confirmation on the menu and pricing I had chosen. How could it be possible that a massive salad composed of such quality ingredients could be one of 6 courses costing in total 30?!
I had ordered a glass of Cava when I arrived. And a rioja by the glass by the time the second course came along. Roasted figs. Foie gras. Balsamic glaze. What can go wrong here? Nothing. And nothing did. I could have used a bit more foie, but then again, when don't I feel that way?
The third course was by far my favorite. Stuffed, hand-made pastas filled with pear and cheese, with a creamy sauce of crisped Jamon Iberico and bits of crisped cracker. The pasta was perfectly made. These combinations of flavors, classic to Florence, are some of my favorites.
Course #4 was the most disappointing: a tuna tartare, with mango gelato, and large, flat-flaked salt. This simply lacked something. The tuna was fresh, but needed to be brightened up a bit in flavor. The mango simply saturated it with sugars, overwhelming the fish. Nonetheless, I loved the presentation on the slate boards and the crunch of the salt with the tender tuna.
Course # 5 came through with a perfectly braised veal cheek, sitting plumply in its juices and topped with some citrusy rosemary. I asked what the white sauce was-- it was mild and pleasing. The waiter, in his characteristic Catalonian-accented lisp, responded that it was, 'mashed potatoes'.
Desert was served with huge silverware-- approximately 16 inches in lenght. To eat this cake required play. It was a pleasure to dig into the chocolate 'brownie' with oversized flatware. The chocolate cake was served with a slightly bitter, herbaceous green gelato; as well as a brightly acidic current sorbet. The big highlight was the scrumptious desert wine which came along with the course.
I left having paid 42 euro for 6 very large plates and 4 glasses of wine. I was convinced that I underpaid, and this is something I rarely feel. I cannot imagine how it was possible that the ingredients alone of what I had eaten cost less than 30 euro, let alone their gorgeous preparation. Divinum did not disappoint.
I wandered the city on a full belly, admiring the churches and stone work. There were many other restaurants in town which were serving fantastic plates of Catalonian cuisine, from little restaurants tucked into charming street corners.
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